The Swiss Way: Mountain Huts

When you have a country that is perfect for outdoor adventure and a population that fervently embraces an active lifestyle, it's no wonder why one of the bigger surprises that we have had since moving to Switzerland is that the Swiss don't camp.

Yes, the Swiss have campgrounds where you can pull up your car, set up a tent on private ground with hot showers and supplies within walking distance. This kind of camping they have. But the kind where you schlep your pack full of all the gear to get by for a week without contact with civilization: that does not exist. There are no areas where people go and set up camp next to a lake or stream, cook by campfire or stove, to sleep under the stars without 60 neighbors within a stone's throw. This kind of camping does not exist. What they do have however are mountain huts.

The mountain huts of Switzerland vary in many different ways, but at their core they are dorm-style sleeping quarters where wilderness explorers can crash for the night. Huts range from rustic cabin to high-end hostel and if you are doing an overnight in the mountains, they are the only place you stay. The Swiss Alpine Club, or SAC, established a network of huts through the years, and though they aren't the only ones providing this type of shelter, they certainly set the standard operating 153 huts and 9300 beds throughout the Alps.

This weekend Lori and I had our first experience in a Swiss mountain hut. We stayed in Campanna Campo Tencia in the Italian Tocino canton in Southern Switzerland. A three hour hike from the closest town with transportation, Campo Tencia, like most SAC huts, is a little oasis in the middle of the mountains.

When you first arrive at a hut like Campo Tencia, there's always an immediate awe in the fact that a structure like this was built in such an isolated location. Some huts are nothing more than a room with a bunch of mattresses on the floor with an attached kitchen/dining area and an outdoor loo. Campo Tencia had it all: indoor bathrooms, hot showers, library, a well-stocked bar, plenty of beds (mattresses, duvets, and pillows), a thorough menu, and a guitar on the wall for visiting musicians. It also had a great outdoor patio with picnic tables, maps and all kinds of information about hiking or climbing in the area.

Huts always have a guardian responsible for the maintenance of the building and its grounds. Guardians also employ staff to assist with cooking and cleaning. Huts also maintain a strict ethical code of honor and the rules are posted on the wall when you arrive. Most huts require you to check in with the guardian upon your arrival, to leave your boots at the door (they supply you with house slippers), to clean up after yourself (beds made, tables cleaned), and to adhere to the strict lights-out policy (generally 22:00).

SAC huts run 365 days a year, so even during the blustery months of winter there is always a warm place to go to in the middle of nowhere. At this time, though most of the facilities are shut down for the season, winter rooms are left open to the public and small sleeping area and stove are provided for heat and shelter. You can pay for your stay in these situations through the honor system by leaving money in a tin box.

All in all, the hut system is executed extremely well. I am convinced that we will be taking advantage of the huts as much as possible during our time here. However, when you consider that Lori and I shared a dorm with 16 others this past weekend (and were fortunate that only 2 of the 16 were snorers), the huts just don't match the freedom of true outdoor camping.